Duval goes Dundee.

De Toekomst is Plantaardig: Kristl Strubbe (2): vleesvervangers en goesting.

2011-07-25T19:53:00.000+02:00

De Toekomst is Plantaardig: Kristl Strubbe (2): vleesvervangers en goesting.

Full Circle.

2009-12-03T08:56:00.024+01:00

Christmas decoration all over Byron Bay and the sun was out when we left for the Gold Coast. At last we see Byron Bay in the sun. Appreciate our B&B with a beautiful sea view and fresh fruit for breakfast. It is absolutely gorgeous and should be on your road book whenever you visit the East Coast.

Reece is the manager of the Sea View B&B and a great host. Thanks for having us Reece.

Meanwhile we have arrived in Broad Beach and Surfers Paradise along the Gold Coast, some 100km South of Brisbane.

Our motorbike journey ends here. We will leave the BMW in the Sofitel garage. The Dundee "Explorateurs" will arrive December 14th and some 20 motorbikes will be shipped back from Brisbane to Europe.

We checked out the area and found ourselves a great apartment, see insert. Esplanade One, check it out. Right on the beach at Surfers Paradise.

Great place, great views, lots of space, parking, pool and all that for less than a room in the Sofitel.

We are spoiled and got once again lucky to find great lodging. Or am I just good at that.

We haven't realized yet this journey is almost over. The bike did great, not one mechanical problem. A flat tire, rear break pads, 2 sets of tires, one road one off road.

Oil, a 10.000km check up in Perth and that was it. She took us around this great continent loaded like a camel and if asked would bring us home safely.

The bike is staying with us for another few days for some sight seeing in the area.

We will leave her behind once we fly to Sydney Saturday pm and return to Europe Tuesday next.

I will have to wait till end of February to recover her somewhere in Paris.

For 60 days Nadine and I mounted our bike every morning and drove some 300km on average every day. Some days I did 600km and when crossing the Nullabor 1000km three days in a row. Our legs, our knees, my hands and arms really hurt. On top we feel bad since we haven't done much exercise for two months. We ate too much rich food and drank to much beer. Something I gave up years ago but with temperatures of 42°C on the road we were looking out for a cold beer at the end of every day.

Tooheys New, VB or a XXXX.

The price of this excess will have to be paid on our return.

Not earlier as we celebrate our anniversary and birthdays all in one go this week end.

Full circle Australia was a wonderful and enriching experience for the both of us.

We discovered we like to travel and see the world in an unconventional way.

We want to be close to the people, see and smell nature. Experience to be out of place but at the same time in sync with the environment.

Motorbike traveling is a dangerous and at the same time a sensational way of traveling.

I am proud and happy Nadine joined me on this journey and I hope many more will come.

I am happy we finished this road movie safely and am looking out for new adventures around the world.

Australia is not only a great country it is a place that changes you.

The outback gave both of us for days and days the ultimate feeling of space and freedom.

If asked what we liked most it is without any doubt Karijini National Park.

I leave you on a quote from Paulo Coelho:

Be brave. Take risks. Nothing can substitute experience.

Cheers and good on you folks.

The End.

Catching the waves.

2009-12-02T13:54:00.005+01:00

Better make that catching the withwash.

It was a "Belgian" day in Byron Bay.

Grey skies, nasty wind, no rain though.

If you thought that would keep us from surfing, no way.

We were in the water at 10am. Nadine not for long as it got very chilly. I tried to get the basics of surfing by listening in on a surf class on the beach. I used to be a windsurfer in the 80-ties and thought it would be easy but this is definitely a whole different ball game.

I need to loose weight, pick up surfers yoga, start to exercise and swim a few k's a day.

I'll be back!

So how about some posing in front of our boards for memory sake and off to the city for a warm meal around 2pm.

That's it folks.

We are on holiday remember. Rest of the day strolling in Byron Bay and sitting on the porch of our lovely sea view shack and watching the time go by.

Tomorrow back on the bike and of to Broad Beach 150km North.

Hope the sun comes out.

Nite.

Closing the gap.

2009-12-01T11:04:00.004+01:00

Can you imagine we actually stopped in this fast food joint for lunch. There is no relation with this Presbyterian graveyard a few miles further down the road although checking our cholesterol stats on our return is on the agenda.

The other pictures were taken when we left Crescent Head in the morning after a thunderstorm last night.

We drove some 420km and are creeping up to Brisbane. We just don't want it to be over so we decided to spent a few days at Byron Bay, another surfers paradise 200km South of Brisbane. The weather is still somewhat strange, big clouds and blue skies succeeding the odd shower. Earlier this evening we drove down to the village for diner but we left our helmets locked on the bike. Unfortunately we hung them upside down. When we came out of the restaurant we had to poor the water out before putting them on for a 5km drive up the mountain where we lodge. http://www.seaviewbyron.com

Tomorrow I go surfing with the mates.

Let you know how that went in a while.

Cheers.

Crescent Head

2009-11-30T12:28:00.006+01:00

I I I

Should have covered more distance today so we can spent a few days on the beach before turning the bike in near Brisbane and fly back to Sydney this week end.

We were lucky this time to find ourselves a nice beach shack in Crescent Head. (surfers check this place out) Unfortunately it didn't stop raining since we arrived at 5pm.

I hope tomorrow we get back to Australia weather. We are aiming for Byron Bay but we could stop at any place on our way that looks nice. I am told there are loads.

How's Belgium, is this serious?

Herman Van Rompuy President Europe? Leterme Prime-Minister? Karel De Gucht Trade Commissioner? Anything else?

Here the Prime-Minister has a "Clinton" to solve. Bugger.

I want the outback!

Nostalgia

2009-11-30T11:46:00.004+01:00

Past New Castle the Pacific Highway becomes an interesting road again.

Nabiac is a small village just past Taree hosting the National Motorcycle Museum.

As the one we visited earlier when leaving Adelaide (Birdwood) this one also is a private initiative from a couple who used to have a motorcycle shop in New Castle.

After retirement they started to assemble, restore and expose the 900 bikes they owned or that were entrusted to them over the years. The result is me wasting an afternoon like a child in a toy store. I share with you only a few pictures of the hundreds I took. Some of my readers may have tears come to their eyes just as I earlier today. Philippe, Marc, recognize the Morini and the Yam? And the blue Suzuki 50cc, my first bike. Bro, for you the Ducati collection, check this out.

In short, because this place is ten times bigger than you expect on the pictures, every single bike you know is exposed. From moto cross, speed biking, GP racing bikes to Vespa's, Solex etc. Those who read my blog and organize motor biking tours in Australia may want to put this private museum on their road book.

All afternoon Nadine has been keeping up with my stories about BSA, Triumph, Montesa, Morini, Ducati, Honda Four's etc.

At 4pm we got back on the road but only for a 100km.

Past Port Macquarie we stopped at Crescent Head, a surfers paradise known to have the longest "point break". (Sure you all understand what I am talking about ;-)

Lazy Sunday afternoon.

2009-11-30T10:40:00.004+01:00

Batesman Bay, some 300km South of Sydney ,was a nice but noisy place on a Saturday night. We only found a room late in the evening, the place was a mistake. A short night and back on the road at 8am. What made we were pretty early in Sydney and wrecked.

I drove twice over the Harbour Bridge and a few times trough the city before settling at Darling Harbour for pictures and lunch.

We were to stay with Eric and Mietje and meet them for diner so we had the afternoon to spent.

30C and walking around in our biking gear wasn't exactly fun so we decided to lay down in Hide Park for a siesta. After a power nap we looked at each other and crossed the street checking in at the Marriott. Minutes later we were diving in their rooftop pool. Wrong decision and pretty embarrassing as we found out half an hour later the Claeys' had a wonderful duplex waiting for us and a 25m pool instead of the jacuzzi-pool at the Marriott. When will I learn to be more patient?

Euh.. we'll be back in Sydney next week end though.

Santa Klaus is in town this morning and of we are up to Brisbane and the "Gold Coast". Cloudy skies and 22°C, is this still Sydney and dam' why can't I find the Pacific Highway?

Tilba Tilba

2009-11-28T11:35:00.010+01:00

Tilba Tilba is the area and Tilba Central is the well preserved gold miners village from the 19th century now under the wings of the national heritage fund and protected as such. A tourist trap but a nice one, check out http://www.tilba.com.au/

When you observe the picture with Nadine in the cheese store you will see some old black&white photos in the background of the store.

One of these pictures (see blog opening photo) had a reference to the "Belgian Day".

It was taken somewhere around 1890-ties but no reference to the actual event.

I am intrigued. Who were those Belgians digging for gold in Tilba Central?
We pay the toll after yesterday's Alpine excess, both of us are still dead tired. So we decide to call it a day after 475km along the South Pacific Ocean working our way up from Melbourne to Sydney. The A1 (Princess Highway) is a wonderful bikers drive.

Most of the day we crossed a rainforest (national park) on a long swirling curved road with beautiful scenery and once in a while a local animal crossing.

Tomorrow Sunday we will close the gap ending up in Sydney late afternoon to meet with Eric and his wife. It is a small world. Eric was a client and business partner for more than a decade when he was the ceo of a big media group in Belgium. We lost sight of each other but he is a biker too and got word of our travels in Australia, where he has new ventures.

We got an invitation to stay with them before we move on to Brisbane.

I am looking forward catching up.

Christian and his wife Marie are also touring on a BMW bike on the East Coast.

Christian, a client for more than a decade when he was the Belgian ceo of a large USA food company. When they were touring on the West Coast a few weeks ago they drove 5 hours in poring rain to Fremantle (Perth) just to say hello. That's what I call a biker buddy. Next week we are supposed to meet again somewhere between Sydney and Brisbane.
It is official, we are going back to Belgium.

Some of you may have thought we would never return and right you were.

Unfortunately time is up so we confirmed our return flight for December 8th.

But not before we drove this baby all the way up to Brisbane to close full circle on our two month journey around Australia.

We're not there yet, so bare with us there is still Sydney and the beaches to come..and another 2000km!

Hasta,

Great Alpine Road.

2009-11-27T11:57:00.009+01:00

This time I found a way to have the blog pictures in the right chronology.

Must download them in reverse order, that simple.

The Great Ocean Road was built by the soldiers who came back from WW1.

Those who fought in Ieper (Belgium) amongst other.

On their return in 1918 the Australian Government sent them straight to the West Coast and had them accomplish the great ocean road to ensure their reintegration in society whilst achieving a great project in camaraderie like they were used to in the war. Hence the statue you van see on the picture next to the arcade erected when the road was opened in 1924 (if my memory is correct).

We left Apollo Bay in the rain the day before yesterday. Very sad we had to drive 100k on this fantastic scenic road in wet and cloudy weather. Nevertheless a great drive but who could have dreamed there was still a better one coming up.

Forget Geelong, industrial and (A12) commercial freeway. We hit Melbourne around 2pm in poring rain. The owner of this delightful restaurant in Apollo Bay (Vista, cray fish thermidor) suggested we go straight to the South Warf and check out the new Hilton. A bargain as we are in convention season. Since the weather was not going to change we spoiled ourselves with a visit to the Melbourne Aquarium (don't laugh, this is great stuff) and we had an early diner at Nobu before we went to a Broadway show in the city. Delicious and simply the best food we had in Australia so far. Although the cray fish the evening before was outstanding too and the oysters tonight were outrageously fresh and tasty. Out in the bush we had truly great food too so I should stop comparing.

Anyway Melbourne was great. We got lucky to find tickets for "The Jersey Boys", great musical.

If you like the genre (Mama Mia, Chicago..) don't miss it. Story of Franky Valli and the Four Seasons. Great music, good fun!

We left Melbourne this morning via the highway direction Sydney.

We drove over the West Bridge and I came to think Antwerp should come over and have a look what a bridge can do for a (harbor) city.

After 250km on the Hume Highway I got so bored we decided to exit at Wangarata and cut East to the coast.

Before we realized we were on the Great Alpine Road to Bairndale. We drove for almost an hour before we reached Hotham (1750m) in the clouds at 10°C. Going down the next 150km were heaven. Bikers better bookmark this road. We have some great tracks in the Alps but none that goes on for 250k of swirling and winding road. Thousands of turns and bents. I know this sounds a bit crazy to some of you but I have a witness now. Nadine loved the scenery and had great fun too. Can you imagine, a month or so ago she had never been on a bike and now she is enjoying Alp rides shifting gear up and down, trowing the bike from left to right like riding a wild horse.

Today was real "mountain biking" making this Australia driving experience complete.

We had rain, hale, 43°C, 7 beaufort wind and mist. Straight roads for thousands of km, dirt road, mud and sand and now Alpine rodeo. What else can one hope for?

After 678km we arrived at Lakes Entrance some 750km South of Sydney. We found ourselves a nice room with a bay view and dived in the pool at 7pm. (see last picture)

Exhausted but happy and the Pinot Noir was delicious.

Bikers nirvana.

2009-11-25T12:27:00.005+01:00

The day started well. We had a great stay in the Blue Lake holiday park the evening before and got an excellent "flat white" (cafe late) in a coffee bar in Mount Gambier before we left for a 380km stretch.

The first picture of the day was at a lavendel farm driving out of Portland. The lady of the house is a strong Danish woman who lost her husband 4 years ago. She is putting the farm up for sale and thought we would be interested. In fact we were fascinated by her story but not necessarily in the 14 hectare estate on offer for 1.4 M aus $.

Our next encounter came later in the afternoon after we passed Warrnambool (Warmenbol ;-) and started the "Great Ocean Road" scenic route.

Julia & Holm are pedaling around the world. They have covered 22.000km so far.

(check our blog links) We have met many bikers (bicyclers) over the past weeks in all parts of Australia. From the fashionable East Coast to the tropical Northern Territory down to West and South Australia to Victoria where we are now. All were covering monumental distances.

But Julia & Holm are beating them all. I have an immense respect for such an achievement both mentally and physically. Although it reduces my journey around Australia on a motorbike to a luxurious cruise for old farts. I love bicycling and long distance in particular. Maybe it is time to exchange the motorbike for some physical exercise in 2010. I make myself a promise to do so. The Nollarbor, 2900km on your bicycles, Julia, Holm I was there. All my respect and admiration for such a great performance, not to mention the other 20.000km. Have a safe journey and enjoy the ride.

I believe the other pictures are pretty self explanatory. Whatever they may say about -the great ocean road- being too touristic or cliché don't believe them. On a motorbike (and maybe on a bicycle) it is an absolutely beautiful experience. Paradise for bikers, GS nirvana. Besides the road there is the ocean and all the dramatic scenery it is trowing at you. Yes you will not be alone out there, I agree there are a few japanese tourists with a small bus and there are a helicopter or two showing them the 12 apostles from birds eye but so what. The 250 remaining km are stunning and a joy to ride.

We are half way when I am writing this. We had lunch at Port Campbel and decided to sleep in Apollo Bay. A beautiful small fishing town with Irish roots and who would have guessed a public golf course. The restaurant Vista is a pure delight. Have the oysters and cray fish!

PS: Céline the owners of restaurant Vista are great people and looking for your kind of experience to help them run their shop. I mentioned your name, pay them a visit when you stop by. Cheers.

Who needs California.

2009-11-24T12:21:00.005+01:00

You may have wondered what happened to our luggage when we left Perth. Easy we sent it to Sydney for a total cost of $139. Delivered at our hotel when we arrive later next week. We screened our remaining stuff and squeezed it in a smaller road bag, the red one you see on the back of the bike. Nadine is discovering the comfort of an arm chair. The little extra tank you see on the right pannier is a souvenir from the Nullarbor crossing. It is such a nice little steel jerrycan, I can't separate from it just yet. I will have to leave it behind in Sydney I'm afraid. Great day we had. Left Adelaide after breakfast and checked out the hills around the city where the picture was taken. We didn't plan too much and just followed our course direction South to Murray Bridge. We followed a scenic route that brought us to Birdwood hosting the nations largest motor museum. Amazing toys we saw as one can expect in Australia. Have a look at the BMW that went around the world in 1966 and the Minerva a very successful pre war Belgian motorcycle.

Once past Murray Bridge we followed the coast line in to the Coorong. A beautiful wetland formed by the river Murray delta and a breading place for pelicans.

200km driving next to the sea will never bore me. So we'll do more so tomorrow.

We didn't realize we had covered 500km so we called it a day. Unannounced we found excellent lodging at Blue Lake Holiday Park in Mount Gambier. Forget Google and just talk to the people in the street, you will be surprised how efficient an advice you get.

Once we got in our nice cabin room we checked Big 4 Holiday Parks on line.

Now bookmark this site!!

The blue lake is a volcano crater acting as a gigantic reservoir serving the city and surroundings.

Tomorrow we'll tackle the "Great Ocean Road", according all publications the most beautiful drive in Australia. I have a feeling Chapman's Peak in Cape Town has competition.

Let you know how that went once we hit Lorne or Apollo Bay.

Cheers,

PS: It's just a lobster restaurant, but not a very good one I'm afraid as the place was for sale.

Adelaide at last.

2009-11-23T04:04:00.007+01:00

Nullarbor comes from Nullus Arbor in Latin (no trees).

Three days ago I left Perth and made a first leap to Norseman for about 800km. The next day I drove +900km to the

Nullarbor village. Yesterday I left 7am aiming to reach Port Augusta (775km) before dusk but finally added the remaining 300km and reached Adelaide around 7pm.

The road was wet in the morning and I got more rain trough the day. Only when I saw the mountains harboring the city of Adelaide the sun came out setting over the ocean.

On that wet road where I was driving particularly alert I watched a kangaroo hopping over the road.

An animal my size less than a 100m in front of me.

I was prepared as I knew they come out at dusk and down mainly. Never the less a frightening experience each time you encounter wild life.

A reminder we are out of place not them.

Wombats, wedge eagles, snakes, rabbits and so many other animals crossing our way. It is amazing not more end up as lunch for the eagles and the black raven.

The closest I got to a collision was with a rabbit and earlier an eagle who took off late when I was approaching. They don't like leaving their -roo meal served on the hot bitumen road.

When I passed those cow I couldn't resist to capture their amazement.

Looking at the few pictures I took you may think there isn't much to see along that 1000km stretch but you are wrong. I just don't want to bore you with yet another photo of empty plains and shrub. I am telling you it is an amazingly beautiful drive from Coolgardie to Port Augusta and everyone who likes to drive should consider taking that road. I had taken a tent and some additional fuel in case but it al turned useless as long as you fill up each time you stop at a petrol station and when you have a 33l tank capacity as we have on the GS Adventure.

Today is a day of rest in Adelaide. The sun is with a mild 26°C and a cloudless blue sky. Nadine is taking a tour on the river Murray while I start planning the remaining of our journey on a terrace in the city.

Life is bliss.

Waiting in Adelaide.

2009-11-22T07:10:00.007+01:00

While André was conquering the Nullarbor I decided to fly to Adelaide.

I wanted more time to check out the capital of Western Australia and could do a few days without biking. There was certainly something more exciting in Adelaide than driving 2900km of straight road trough the desert.

After the plaine, the sea, the bush and the outback it took me a while to adapt to this big small city.

A few hours after arriving I already missed nature, the wide open and the long drives.

Friday pm I started walking in the streets to get acquainted again with the crowd and the unfamiliar environment. The hotel is in the city centre giving easy access to a lot of musea and attractions. I visited the South Australian Museum explaining the Arboriginal way of living and lots of artifacts in display.

Saterday I went to Port Adelaide, an overrated touristic place, nobody on the streets, closed shops and hotels, only Christmas corals trough the loudspeakers to keep me company. I visited the Maritime Museum, more or less a childrens museum, but interesting to discover the lifestyle of the pioneers in the 19th century.

I went to a seahorse breeding center and learned a lot about these cute animals, did you know that it's the male who is taking care of the eggs in his poutch until they hatch ?

Then there was the Railway Museum, 40 locomotives one can climb in and learn how the rail track through the Nullarbor plain was build.

Sunday I went cruising on the river Murray. Spent the afternoon in a Missisipi boat all in great style.

In the evening I went to the movies to see Julie and Julia, Meryl Streep was great as usual.

All in all a very likable film for the foodie I am. Back on the street on my way to the hotel I got a text from André : "Join me at La Trattoria, King Williamstreet."

He had made it trough the Nullarbor and one day early!

Champagne!

Wassup in the Nullarbor?

2009-11-21T12:46:00.005+01:00

Boring you said?

I was prepared for a day of emptiness and boredom but check it out after 926km from Norseman to Nullarbor.
Not a city mind but a petrol station with cabin rooms in the back, a windmill, a gsm mast and as it turned out delicious sea food for diner.
The day started at 5am. The miners sleeping in the cabin next door were up early. The rattling diesel of their Hilux woke me up.
So I made it an early day too. At 6am I was having breakfast at the BP station in Norseman. Filled up my tank, took plenty of water and soft drinks and 2 cookies. They would become lunch as I didn’t stop riding for 925km straight. Fuel stops aside. Cold 14°C in the morning warming up to a 21° around noon. Very cold in the evening.
After 250km I cached up with the folks I met earlier in Perth at another gas station. They’re traveling on a Honda Pan European. Marc and Ashley, biking together for the first time and also excited about crossing the Nollabor.
I love bicycling and long distance in particular. Imagine my surprise when I met this Dutch guy weighing 140kilogram having lost 20k over the past 4 weeks according his story.
Later I met Jane and David from the UK biking around in W-Australia.
It seems this country is attracting people who are looking for something out of the ordinary. Be it physically or mentally.
What the USA was for my generation is Australia for the next.
No longer looking for extreme materialistic pleasure but body and mind in balance with nature is the new quest.
Eco-friendliness and no-thrills luxury.
A dead tree turned into shrine a 1000km deep in the desert decorated with running shoes from all over the world and from all type of brands, fashion and model.
A spontaneous resignation of the material world embracing the overwhelming power of nature and the effect it has on all who wander in this far away part of the world.
I got caught speeding at 145km/h after 900km. I wasn’t in the mood for a discussion. So I told the policemen the true story of my day.
I had been driving exact 120km/h for 8hours watching out for –roo’s from every corner of my eye.
Only saw a camel or two a few rabbits crossing and lots of eagles eating corpses on the road.
Got so bored in the end started speeding to get in before dawn and the animals coming out.
The guys took my name and let me of the hook after I promised I would stop and sleep at Nullarbor only 25km down the road.
Petrol stations are the “Ryokan” of the new world. People come to eat, sleep and they meet.
Occasionally one makes new friends just by participating in the life that is happening in front of you.
The owner and his mates are checking out and having fun with the new bike they’ve just assembled meant as a birthday present for his son.
The Taiwanese girl with a group of Asian people thought I was Ewan McGregor, I am joking, she thought my bike was cool :-/
Before I go to sleep in a few minutes I will step out of my cabin room and lay down on my back somewhere on a bench on the parking.
Watching the stars and the constellation. A memory I want to register in my brain for grey days to come in Belgium.

Tomorrow more Nullabor road on the program. Hope to reach Port Augusta 800km East.

I am dead tired.
G’night,

Nullarbor (nougabolle)

2009-11-20T11:24:00.004+01:00

I left Perth this morning in poring rain and 14°C. Exceptional weather, it's the change of climate, the Australians are warning me when I am having my "flat white" in a coffee shop just before taking the Great Eastern Highway to Coolgardie and later South to Norseman.

785km later I am writing you from my office desk in this "deluxe" roadhouse room.

The bike had to stay outside as you can notice and Nadine is already in Adelaide.

So I am on my own again and that is giving me plenty time to catch up with mail and blog.

Tomorrow I am of to Eucla 750km East and straight trough the Nullabor Plain.

I am not sure what kind of weather I should be asking for. When it's hot it can go up to +40C but if it's like today I will have to wear a rain suit and fight cold hands.

About a 100km before Norseman the environment changed to an absolute emptiness. On the photo you see salt lakes on both sides of the road.

What resulted in a strong gusting wind making the bike a difficult ship to steer.

To remind us not to drink and drive the local government came up with these 3D "posters". A long the road showing on a "pied de stale" the wrecks of cars that crashed in recent months.

Pretty convincing I must say.

If my Telstra -wireless broadband stick- is able to make a connection tomorrow I will update you on the most straight forward and boring road in the world.

Time for fish & chips now.

Cheers.

Done dee

2009-11-18T15:51:00.010+01:00

The last two days of the Dundee raid showed two more powerful experiences. The first one was running out of gas a long way from the next petrol station. My computer indicated I had autonomy of a 130km to cover less than 100km for the next petrol station. The engine stopped when I was supposed to have another 89km in the tank. Turned out there was so much wind the computer got it wrong. Driving 120km/h against a strong headwind tricked the electronics. My average consumption was much higher than the previous day. Something to bare in mind when I will be doing the Nullarbor later this week.

No worries, we were helped out by a local who happened to carry 10l in his van at all times. Thanks mate.

The second was a visit to the "pinnacles western australia" (Google it as such and discover)

The night before yesterday we camped using our favored place on top of the assistance car.

From there on it is another 450km to the port of Fremantle near Perth where I am now.

Last night we had our farewell diner with the folks who traveled with us on the second leg

of the Dundee.

From now on we are on our own and the journey is not over yet.

I decided not to participate with the third leg of the Dundee, Perth-Alice Springs-Brisbane.

Instead our new plan is to drive to Sydney together as we did for most of the previous 10.000km.

Only on dirt roads and very long stretches Nadine stepped down from the bike to join

the 4x4 assistance car.

From Perth to Sydney it is about 5000km to be checked.

The first 3000km are covering Perth to Adelaide. The road has a history and a reputation.

It is the longest straight forward road in the world. 2900km straight trough the desert.

With extreme heat in the day time and very cold at night.

I will try to cover that distance in 4 to 5 days.

Did some shopping today to fetch me a tent and some additional gear.

Nadine is flying the day after tomorrow to Adelaide and will be waiting for me there.

Onwards we travel together to Melbourne and later to Sydney.

So bare with us and check out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nullarbor_Plain

I will hit the road the day after tomorrow after servicing my bike with BMW in Perth.

So don't be surprised there will be a radio silence for the next 3 or 4 days.

How's traffic in Brussels by the way?

Monkey Mia

2009-11-17T15:48:00.012+01:00

Where were we?

In Monkey Mia, some 1000km above Perth I guess. That was 3 days ago or was it already 4? Great place, a must if you explore the Australian West coast. Don't forget to wake up at 7am to watch the dolphins swimming almost ashore to get an extra portion of fish from the rangers who study them. Lots of pelicans too. Beauties!

Later that afternoon out for some sailing and contemplating a Technicolor sunset.

A few miles back don't miss shell bay. Beaches whiter than white because of tiny white shell pilling up 6m deep.

We should have stayed longer.

Blow Holes

2009-11-14T10:43:00.008+01:00

On the road from Coral Bay to Carnarvon (352km) we stopped halfway to see the giant ocean waves hitting the shore. Millions of years of erosion carved holes in the rock formation where the water is forced trough with every new wave rolling under the cliffs. The result are fountains of water like the hot springs on Mount Fuji. Impressive by their hight and the sound they make when the water is pressed trough a diameter of 20 or 30cm.

We passed the Tropic of Capricorn again but this time on the West side of Australia on our way down South. When we started our journey we crossed it on the East side going North some 1000km above Brisbane. The temperatures are finally coming down. Today we had a mild 29°C but a very strong wind pushing the bike to inclination like if we were on a sailboat. When the wind catches our helmets on a lateral course it is very hard to keep your eyes on the road. It is like getting punches on your jaw making your head turn involuntarily. We came in groggy after this fight against the elements.

Carnarvon is a very little town, think a few streets a petrol station and a Woolworth supermarket. The place is known for fruit and horticulture, meanly banana and avocado. We are slightly land inward still facing the ocean. There is a jetty and a nice marina see picture. But the landmark building putting this place on the world map is the giant parabolic antenna that was built and installed here in the 60-ties.

It was the first antenna in Australia capturing the satellite signal.

In that respect it played a vital role in the Apollo landing on the moon in '69 we learned. Today it is out of use (since 87) and was acquired by the city.

Restoration will start soon and a museum is to open in coming years.

Other highlights of the day were a chat with a Ducati 1983 owner, a young couple from Finland touring in Australia for 6 months and an industrial archeological site along the road to remind us there was a time before the Road Trains came in.

(btw the brand is Kenworth and there are also Mack's on the road)

That's all for today folks, tomorrow we're of to Monkey Mia playing with the dolphins.

Cheers.

Nemo

2009-11-13T11:10:00.006+01:00

G'Day mates, ready for some snorkeling? We left at 8am and spent the day on the boat and in the water. We were like in an aquarium or as Nadine put it in the movie Nemo.

She recognized some of the fish we saw by the characters in the film, how's that for educative animation. Have a look at the scenery looking out of our motel window. Breathtaking place and also eco-balanced with 3 windmills supplying 94% of all the energy need in this small town. The Nigaloo Reef spans over hundreds of kilometer along the West coast but only at Coral Bay you will see the Manta Ray (I got lucky this afternoon swimming above the Manta for a few minutes) and see the whales. Rest of the day was snorkeling and contemplating the most beautiful fish and sea creatures I have ever seen. The list is too long but we were lucky to have (on different locations) sea turtles, manta ray (see picture I took out of the boat after swimming above her 4.2m wing span , a few sting ray, snappers and many more.

Observe a typical Aussie camper near the beach, anyone saw my flip-flops?

Tomorrow we are back in the saddle, 358km to Carnarvon.

Not before a nice diner tonight at the local inn, I think I'll go for meat though.

Cheers mates.

Karijini

2009-11-12T14:33:00.006+01:00

Today I forgot what day it was. Hasn't happened to me since I was a child.

The day before yesterday, leaving Port Hedland, we also left the coastal highway aiming South-East for Karijini National Park. A 400km stretch with temperatures reaching a record 42.5°C. Every morning when we pack and hit the road we make sure we have at least 4 liters water or thirst quenching drinks on board. We also buy a bag of ice (5$)and load it in one of the panniers, bottles on top. We made it a rule to stop every 50 à 75km to drink and replenish. After the first stop the ice is gone and later the water starts to heat up resulting in hot Gatorade. Our Gore-Tex gear is giving good protection but we must be aware at 130km/h our body is rapidly dehydrating without us noticing. Driving 500km in such conditions is simply wearing you out. Every night we are dead tired and all the way we are dreaming about airco and a nice pool. Sometimes our dreams come trough.

We arrived late afternoon at Karijini but the picture you see is actually made at sunrise 5am the morning after. Karijini is an eco-park 100% self sufficient. In a week from now the park will be closing because of the high temperatures and lack of visitors wanting to visit the beautiful gorges and have a swim in the cool river.

It will re open in 4 months from now. Appreciate the beautiful tent worth a 5 star hotel room. Temperatures were close to 40° when we arrived and remained in the high 30-ties late in the evening. In the middle of the night a cool breeze is blowing trough the mosquito net windows. When I woke up having a glance at what was happening outside I got this great view. In the background sounds of exotic birds and creatures, their existence we ignored so far, should be imagined to complete the decorum.

Karijini was one of our best wildlife experiences in recent weeks. And exactly here ending up in this untouched place I was supposed to join in a conference call late in the evening with the office and one of our dearest clients. A 15' satellite telephone call later I was admiring one of the most impressive Milky Ways I have ever seen in my life. E.T. or Close Encounters of the third kind? That kind of a night I mean.

Yesterday we had to make a 530km leap back to the West Coast. Spending the night at a farm (Giralia). Appreciate the contrast with our previous lodging. A night in a 3x3m container was definitely a new low comfort wise.

Sometimes you simply can not drive an extra 200km so we're forced to take what is available in the middle of the savannah. At those occasions I regret not to travel in a 4x4 with a nice tent on its roof. Always better than the flee bag we slept in for a few hours. The heat was unbearable and the steel container walls were like an oven.

But no worries mate, today we had only 150km to cover before hitting the beach at Coral Bay. Wait until you discover paradise. More on this tomorrow.

Another 6 days and some 2000km before we reach Perth. Tomorrow we don't touch the bikes. Only beach, boat and snorkeling on the agenda. The bikes are getting a 10.000km check.

The Ningaloo Reef resort at Coral Bay is comfortable and we are lucky to have a nice sea view room and a Queen bed. Smiles!

Good night to you all folks.

PS:

The "Road Trains" I was referring to earlier are no Mack's but another brand, you know the name?

Buy Rio Tinto

2009-11-09T14:20:00.009+01:00

We left the 80 Miles Beach camping place early this morning, without breakfast that is. We had no provisions and decided to hit the road long before the other riders and get our coffee at the very next point of civilization, a BP petrol station some 115km West. Our road book was confusing at some point so we just got those 265km non stop under our belt before lunchtime and arrived at our destination 11am. Port Hedland is Australia's biggest and one of the world's largest commodity port. Consider 4 ship like the one you see below are leaving this port every day. Destination China and Asia primarily.

Nadine decided to do some washing this afternoon and I got to visit this spectacular harbor and the BHP-Billiton shipping infrastructure. A 7,5km long train rolls in every 2 days coming from deep in the country where mining companies like Rio Tinto are operating the biggest open mining sites in the world. We got a full sightseeing tour organized by the Port authority making for a fascinating afternoon.

I also have some great pictures from the world's most dangerous pub situated in the heart of the old harbor but I'll wrap this up with what is the hottest car in Australia, the UTE (pronounce youth). Also appreciate the clear sign of hospitality and tolerance on the bumper of many such vehicles.

Tomorrow we are off to Karijini National Park (389km-33km dirt road), leaving the coast line going back in to the bush. Today there was nothing on the road besides one petrol station. Tomorrow there will be absolutely nothing. You may wonder where the interest is in covering such vast distances on a bike seeing almost no sign of civilization except the road by itself. I am not sure this makes any sense but you could compare it with sailing. I know many who will tell you endless stories about what happened in those hours of sheer emptiness.

Almost 8000km on the road and I still like it a lot. Nadine tells me she likes the adventure so far and the closeness we experience driving this bike together.

I am still amazed she is doing this journey with me. Yesterday she told me only a month ago anyone could have offered her a million to participate in such a trip and she would have refused for sure. Now she is actually enjoying it.

It looks like Perth will be the end of this road movie. I have decided not to participate with the third leg of the Dundee 09. The one linking Perth via Alice Springs with Brisbane, our port of departure. That part of the raid will be primarily off road biking meaning Nadine would have to leave earlier. There will be other occasions to do such an extreme experience and for now we prefer to travel together. What is tempting though is to drive from Perth all the way to Sydney and make Australia full circle..but we have time to think about that the next 4000km to Perth.

We'll keep you posted.. btw have I mentioned we are still having 38 up to 42°C here.

80 Miles Beach

2009-11-09T11:07:00.009+01:00

This was our little shag last night at 80 Miles Beach.

A desolate beach 376km South of Broome on the Australian West Coast. The place is known to the world by the giant turtles coming a shore this time of the year to lay their eggs in the dunes. They were out last night but we have no pictures!

The day started earlier in Broome with a beautiful ocean view and something to make those surfers back home eat their heart. We had lunch at the farm of a family producing the best watermelon in the world. Thousand of hectares of watermelon crop in the middle of savannah makes you wonder how that is possible.

Turns out they are sitting on one of the biggest well along the west coast.

I am sure you know our buddy "Mack" by now.

We're getting a long better day by day ;-)

Broome-Broome..

2009-11-07T15:31:00.004+01:00

Our last night in the Kimberley's we camped near the Windjana gorges.

A magical place with a beautiful setting for a movie but infested with "Frechies" (fresh water crocodiles) and giant bats. The first are not that dangerous but still when they get hungry can swallow a small Wallaroo. The second just shit on you when you walk under the trees where they spent the day resting by the thousands.

I let the pictures give you story.

Our next destination is Broome, a small but very pleasant town near the ocean. I missed the sunset and I owe you pictures of the ocean. I got a glimpse before diving in our pool at The Sanctuary Resort in Broome. Check it out!

A few questions for you to answer by tomorrow. What is the huge tree called along the road and what are those termites made of you see on the next picture?

We drove 250 km this afternoon and the only variation in the scenery was the size of both.

Stay upright mate!

2009-11-07T14:58:00.004+01:00

It is an expression the Aussies use frequently in this part of the country. I wasn't sure what they meant. Stay upright mate.. something like -don't let the country put you under. In crossing the Kimberley's I learned to take it literally. I lost count but many of our fellow riders and their motorbikes went down on the 700 or was it 800km off road we did over the last 3 days. One pilot broke his collarbone another one got away with a sprang ankle and a third one had his face a bit redesigned. Nothing really serious except for a few bikes in a total loss. The road didn't look that difficult but turned out to be treacherous at all times and after it started to rain it became a real ski slope. I got lucky and came in before the rain caught me. The days after were more of the same. Long days on dirt roads and a good rain shower on the last 30km to finish it off. Camping became less comfortable too because of the rain and tropical temperatures of +35°C way in to the night. Admire our tent on top of the car (we got a VIP treat) and yes that is a bull standing in the middle of the road waiting for me to pass him. We wanted a bit of adventure biking so we got our share, thank you. Can we move on to Broome now?

Loose the pressure.

2009-11-04T14:11:00.001+01:00

Loose the pressure.

Breakfast was at 7am but we were late. At 8 o’clock everyone had left and the two of us had our scrambled eggs quietly on the porch and took our time to contemplate the scenery.
The owner of the roadhouse told us to go and have a look at the Victoria River crossing a few km further down the road. On the picture Nadine is standing in the middle of it.
We didn’t loose too much time because there were 458km to cover to Home Valley, a beautiful guesthouse in the middle of the Kimberley’s. The nearest point of civilization in both direction is 300km. Earlier this afternoon we passed the frontier between NT (Northern Territory) and WA (West Australia). There is a 1h1/2 time difference just in passing this imaginary time barrier.
At the start of the dirt road some 75km before hitting Home Valley’s swimming pool Nadine switched to the 4x4.
I stopped to deflate my tires, probably too much, 0,8 in front and 1,2 in the back. I was still on road tires and deflating them helps a lot to control the bike keeping her from jumping tracks.
Tomorrow there’s another 302km of dirt road on the agenda. I will drive the bike alone.
Let you know how that went in a few days because there is no network reaching this remote area before closing in to Broome.
I wrote this late Wednesday evening In Home Valley and am sending this thanks to a brief broadband window I got from our hosts.
Have a good one, talk soon.

Shocking won!

2009-11-04T14:07:00.003+01:00

We are well on our way in what is the second leg of the Dundee Trilogy, heading from Darwin to Perth.
The aboriginal city of Katherine lays behind us and our next stop is a small roadhouse near Victoria River some 500km SW from Darwin.
A roadhouse can be anything, a shag or a kind of motel. Most of the time it is part of a petrol station and has some self-contained rooms in steel.
A shabby bed an even shabbier bathroom and a noisy air-conditioning that hasn’t been cleaned since the day it was put on.
But after 485km on the road with a permanent temperatures between 35 & 40°C it is a heaven of peace and cool.
The best time of the day is when we can take off our bike gear, take a cold shower and lie naked under the fan with the airco on max. Pure delight!
On the road the scenery is changing a lot. Gone is the flat bush land we had for thousands of km. We are definitely getting in to a canyon and gorges environment.
Still a lot of cold bush fires along the road and super big road trains wiping you off the road when they cross. Better get out of the way.
On the photo I just passed one of these monsters but than I got him tailing me at 120km/h. Maybe you saw the movie -Duel, got the picture?
Finally a had the bastard passing me and we waited 15’ so we had him out of our site.
We reached Victoria River and got in just in time to watch The Melbourne Race (think Ascot in Victoria Australia) the biggest horse race in the country.
Absolutely everyone is betting on the outcome and so did we. “Shocking” came in first and we lost 5$. Everyone happy and the locals very drunk.
Tomorrow we are off to Kununurra and the Gibb River. Dirt road for the next 800km!

Darwin Sunday afternoon

2009-11-01T15:51:00.005+01:00

Last day of a short break at Darwin in the Northern Territory. 70.000 inhabitants. A tropical climate averaging 38°C with high humidity.

A very modern but rather small city. Very rich though and hasn't suffered at all from the economic crisis I am told.

All the cattle from the Northern Territory will leave the country via Darwin. Nice harbor with a Cape Town feel.

We spent Sunday afternoon at the Yacht Club having delicious oysters and a pumpkin salad with a nice NZ Chardonnay.

The rest of the day we prepared ourselves for the next 5000km to Perth. Shaping up the bike (car-wash, oil, off-road tires etc) and eliminate some of the luggage we can live without.

Tomorrow 10am we are off to Katherine (300km) Tuesday we ad another 250km down to Victoria River Roadhouse

http://www.exploroz.com/Places/26108/NT/Victoria_River_Roadhouse.aspx#Images

Guillaume I saw an empty spot were your boat would fit in nicely.

Dundee part 2

2009-10-31T02:15:00.004+01:00

Alright, we made up our minds and will stay with the T3 organization up to Perth.

We will leave Darwin Monday morning one day ahead of the group. That way we can break up the first 500km and make it a more comfortable ride by staying one night over in Katherine. The new participants who are arriving today and tomorrow will be catching up with us on Tuesday evening in Victoria Valley.

where you see the dotted line on the map West below Darwin there will be 3 days of off-road driving and camping in the wild to cover some 1300km to Broome.

Time to do some camping-shopping in Darwin because we miss the right gear we found out.

Darwin

2009-10-30T02:16:00.003+01:00

We have arrived in Darwin in the North of Australia.

Staying at the Novotel looking at the ocean.

A few days rest and -en route- for Perth.

Thank you for having followed us so far.

Unfortunately we don't know who is actually interested in reading about our Dundee adventure. We only know by the 22 people who have signed up to follow our blog.

But we suspect you are many more to check us out regularly.

Why don't you make yourselves known so we can keep contact or let us know how things are on your side of the world. I am writing this blog in English (poor I know) to reach out to all of you. Don't tell me I am making my life unnecessary difficult.

Talk soon, take care.

Ubir

2009-10-29T10:38:00.004+01:00

Wednesday October 28th, we woke up late and left around 11am the Cooinda Gagugju in the Kakudu National Park to make a short (100km) trip to Ubir before joining Aurora, our last stop before Darwin. We wanted to see the aboriginal paintings on the rock formations and the magnificent view over the vast waste lands 250m above see level.

Tomorrow we will arrive in Darwin. A few days at the Novotel facing the ocean will be welcome. We still have to make up our minds if we stay longer and sign up for the second leg of this Dundee Raid up to Perth.

Another 16 days eating dust and gravel and watching out for kangaroos crossing the road right in front of your wheel. But we admit now that we are here it is very tempting to stay longer and discover the rest of this amazing country. According to some the West Coast is by far the more scenic road and the temperatures should be coming down once we're approaching Broome. We had 35 up to 40°C all day over the past week.

I am all in favor to have us continue this wonderful journey and Nadine is excited too. What we haven't figured out is if we continue our travels with the T3 organization or we just hit it off on our own. We will have that decided over the next days and let you guys know what we are up to. Tomorrow we will say good by to the people who travelled with us over the past 15 days. All really nice folks I must say and each of them are sorry they can't stay any longer. Nadine and I feel we should take this opportunity and continue our journey. It want happen every year I have my bike in Australia Nadine on the duo seat and a career break back home. Start those engines, Perth here we come!

Keep moving

2009-10-27T07:29:00.006+01:00

We left Daly Waters early Monday morning.

On the road to Mataranka we crossed many participants of the Australian Solar Race and we also stopped to say hello to Jean. Jean is walking around the world. He started 9 years ago when he was 45 and is now approx 62.000km further crossing Australia from North to South. He is taking one month off every year to be with his wife and children. Another 2 years to go before he ends his journey. You can support Jean if you go and visit his website and sponsor his quest like we did when we stopped on the road to Mataranka and made a friend.

Mataranka is called the Capital of never, never land.

We left this morning after a bad night in a small road house with no airco and stopped in Katherine, a nice city on the road to Darwin.

Our next stop later in the afternoon will be the Cooinda resort in the Kakadu National Park some 300km South of Darwin and our destination for the coming two days.

Along the scenic road from Katherine to Cooinda you can find some giant thermite constructions, see pictures.

At sunset we went on the Yellow River to spot the crocodiles and some of the most amazing fauna & flora.

Join us in our amazement.

More nature and aboriginal tribal history tomorrow.

Only a few days left before our first leg of the Dundee Rally is over.

We are considering signing up for the second leg but nothing is sure yet.

We might continue our journey on our own as we haven't reached an agreement yet with the T3 organization.

We'll keep you posted.

Nadine presenteert..

2009-10-26T15:09:00.006+01:00

Hallo iedereen, tijd dat ik ook iets schrijf op onze blog.

Ik zocht naar inspiratie maar André gaf me al direct een voorzet.

Jullie vragen je waarschijnlijk af hoe ik het in godsnaam heb aangedurfd om op een motor te stappen om duizenden kilometers af te malen in Australië.

Eerlijk gezegd ik weet het ook niet. Het was als een klik in mijn hoofd. Tot we hier waren en ik in Brisbane al die motoren voor het hotel zag staan had ik nooit op een motor gezeten.

Of toch, een of twee keer maar dat was me absoluut niet bevallen. Erger nog, ik vond het toen vreselijk. Maar ik wist dat het deze keer anders zou zijn.

André had me in België helemaal voorbereid, neen we hebben geen testrit gemaakt of niets zelfs geen kort ritje in Frankrijk.

We kochten een Schuberth integrale helm en een echt goed BMW Gore-Tex pak, botten en handschoenen. Alles top kwaliteit. Ik voelde me vanaf het eerste moment veilig en klaar voor de rit.

Sinds we voor het Novotel in Brisbane vertrokken ben ik geen enkele keer in de problemen gekomen. Ik heb natuurlijk moeten leren omgaan met het verkeer en de kwetsbaarheid op de motor.

Daarbij rijden we hier links van de weg en is alles nieuw. De verkeerstekens, de omgeving langs de baan, de dieren die plots oversteken en alles wat er zoal kan gebeuren als je 5000km in twee weken aflegt. Maar ik voel me goed en begin aardig te wennen aan reizen met de motor. Het helpt natuurlijk om met en groep van 15 motoren te reizen waarvan er toch de helft koppels zijn en zelfs twee vrouwen zelf rijden. Een relatie die onze blog volgt vroeg via André welke kledij het beste is al je zo lang onderweg bent in Australië en toch in vrij extreme omstandigheden reist.

Wij hebben in de afgelopen twee weken al een mooie staalkaart gekregen van het klimaat tussen Brisbane en Darwin. Milde temperaturen in het begin tot +40C de afgelopen week gedurende uren (400km) aan een stuk op de weg. We hebben ook een ongelofelijk zwaar onweer gehad met hagelbollen zoals keien. Mijn advies is eenvoudig. Ik heb het juiste pak gekozen. Het BMW pak, ik denk dat het model Santiago heet. Op de weg gaan in jeans en t-shirt is absoluut niet aan te raden. Nergens niet maar zeker hier niet. Overigens wanneer je eenmaal on the road bent heb je geen last van dit pak. Het is pas wanneer je stil staat in de brandende zon met 40° op de teller dat je begint te dromen van een koude douche en airco in je kamertje.

De Schuberth helm is top. Ik kocht hem omdat hij een extra lichtgewicht is maar blijkt nu dat die reclame over de grote lucht doorstroming echt wel klopt en het ingebouwde zonnescherm werkt perfect en heb je echt wel nodig hier.

Wist je wat ons zo opviel hier? Dat de motor en onze helmen vrij blijven van insecten sporen. Geloof me of niet maar na 5000km is het windscherm van de motor en van mijn helm quasi intact.

Na de tocht door brousse en de zand piste zien onze pakken en alles op en rond de motor rood van het zand. Het zit tot in de kleinste hoeken en in de bagage die we mee zeulen.

Vanavond wasdag vrees ik.

Tot binnenkort.

Nadine

Hell's Gate and more..

2009-10-26T14:33:00.006+01:00

Hi there good folks.

You must have thought we disappeared from the surface of the earth and right you were.

We had no connection for 4 or 5 days. Only yesterday I was able to put a few pictures online but there wasn’t enough time to report.

We are literally in the middle of nowhere. Queensland is way behind us and we are now in to the Northern Territory.

Hard to find a more remote place. A lot is aboriginal territory.

I believe my last update was right before or right after Undara, the volcanic park where we stayed and visited the lava caves under the savannah.

Have a look at the pictures, absolutely amazing stuff. We slept in old train wagons serving as (small) hotel rooms.

The Kangaroo steak was delicious but forget about the cheese cake after.

If you are also following us via Facebook you can have a look at all the pictures we’ve been taking.

Undara Park should be high on your list if you want to visit this part of Australia.

The nearest point to civilization is the next isolated farm or house before getting to Normanton some 435km up North or if you want to return to the previous spot we were it will take you 378km.

How about keeping up with the neighbors?

On Thursday 22nd we drove from Undara to Normanton (438km) to stay at the Purple Pub (Google it). Yet another wacko place literally in the middle of nowhere.

The Australians have a special place in their heart for such isolated and freaky pubs where aboriginals and locals are mingling with accidental tourists on BMW bikes over too many XXXX beers.

The Purple Pub yet another place not to miss out on your travels in that area. No, you can’t drive your bike in the pub!

After yet another short but good night sleep we are ready to tackle the dirt road to Burketown and later to Hells Gate Roadhouse.

A name with some significance as it turned out. The evening before Ed who is driving Popeye, the Mitsubishi assistance truck and who’s also our mechanic, changed all the road tires on the bikes to off road shoes for some serious dirt tracks that were ahead of us.

Appreciate the pictures and imagine the “fun” we had. Nadine switched the back seat on my bike for a more comfortable and safer spot in the Nissan Sherpa 4x4.

Friday October 23rd was a day to remember. 429km of witch 210km on dirt road.

After 10 days our group is now falling apart in smaller gangs and a few solo riders. I like to ride alone a few km ahead of the others following my own pace avoiding eating dust.

Danny and his wife Christine were still driving together on their bike so was Olivier and Grete his wife, the other Flemish couples on this journey.

The few other duo-bikers are now driving solo. Their ladies found a seat in the assistance car or truck.

Danny is an experienced off road biker as I witnessed when we did the Trans Tunisia Raid last year on KTM bikes. He is also a very good photographer always eager for some spectacular action shots.

Well he got his share this time I guess.

What happened that afternoon wasn’t in the road book. Olivier and Grete, both experienced bikers, lost control in the soft sand when they were shifting tracks on the dirt road.

The bike started to waggle and to slide and finally catapulted both riders from its back on the hard surface of the road.

I haven’t seen what happened but they got picked up by “Popeye” and brought in safely at Hell’s Gate Roadhouse in the middle of the jungle.

As I was telling you earlier this is some 400km from the nearest point of civilization.

They were both injured and at that point we thought they were seriously injured so they got rescued by the “Flying Doctors” (Google it).

It took them 3 hours to get to us (8PM) and flew them out of this dump around 10pm.

I will share a few photos with you so you get an idea of the situation that night.

Now the good news is Olivier and Grete joined us again today in Mataranka (Elsey Park).

After a two hour flight out of Hells Gate near Boorroloola Olivier and Grete spent yesterday and the day before in a hospital some 800km South of where we are.

Their diagnosis was very reassuring so they were able to join our group again today. Grete had a small concussion and a bruised elbow. Olivier smashed his ribs and still has a hard time breathing and laughing but nothing too serious considering the impact.

Last night they took a bus and cached up with us this morning 9am in Daly Waters.

They will spent the remaining of the week in the car. Grete to recover and return to Belgium early next week and Olivier shaping up to finish the Dundee somewhere mid December.

The next morning when we left from Hells Gate Roadhouse, by the way I should have mentioned they have an airstrip so the “Flying Doctors” were able to fly in and out, a near miracle in itself.

So the next morning everyone was scared like hell to tackle the next 307km of more dirt road trough the wilderness and this time with tougher challenges and plenty of water to cross.

Some gave up after the first 35km. I must admit that first part was hell. In Flemish we call this ‘los zand’ that means loose sand, here they call it dust sand or powder.

The trouble is the terrain changes all the time. Every time you think you have understood the road conditions you get tricked. The surface is changing so quickly you must adapt your riding style all the time. The BMW’s are doing great and the off road tires were a big help but never the less it was hard work to keep those bikes on their feet. Some times it looked like a BMW GS battle field.

I too had to let her go down, only once, and I tumbled in the “powder” but was back on my feet in a flash.

No harm done if only my right food didn’t got caught under the right pannier and wheel. I have been stupid not to choose to wear my enduro boots for this trip. They are strong and protect you from your ankle up your knee. I rather wore the soft BMW boots and sprang my ankle. No worries I thought and and off I went. Only later that day my foot got swollen and the pain started. Meanwhile that is under control. We have two veterinaries with the team so I am getting all the care I need.

I promised myself once we get to Darwin to do some shopping at the local BMW store for better boots.

The first lap of this “DUNDEE” raid had only 4 days off road on a total of 15 days and approx 5000km. The second lap will have 50% of dirt road..

Saturday 24th we stayed at the Boorroloola hotel in a place with only this road house to make up for a village. It has been aboriginal territory for the past 700km going on up to Darwin.

It means there are special regulations when it comes to drinking or buying liquor. Basically we had to buy our own wine and beer and transport it with us if we wanted a drink with the BBQ at sunset.

No one really feels like transporting cans of beer or bottles of wine all day just to have a drink later in the day but strange enough those who did became very popular that evening.

Sunday 25th we left Boorroloola for Daly Waters 383km in one long stretch of tar road with a constant temperature of +40°C.

Have a look at the pictures where Nadine is standing next the bike keeping her helmet on to have some protection against the sun and the heat.

It is so warm and dry the woods next to the Savannah Hwy (a one lane road btw) are catching fire spontaneously.

Very, very impressive when you are driving at some 120km/h and see the smoke on the horizon.

The closer you get the more you realize you shouldn’t be there but you can’t go anywhere else. Only turn around and drive yet another 300 or so km back from where you came.

I am telling you there is absolutely nothing in between. Not a house, not a service station (we always must make sure we have enough fuel to make it to our next destination) not a soul.

Only kangaroos or cattle and large eagles eating the first one when they got hit by a car or a road train, remember those are 50m long trucks driving in the middle of the road.

So when we approached the fires we had to make up our minds. Make a U-turn or carry on and speed trough the smoke and dust. We did so and stopped once we passed the fire area and took some pictures.

It will be two weeks now since we arrived in this amazing country. Some of the Frenchies who are traveling with us said Australia is 40 times France. To see the French humbled by the beauty and sheer size of this country is an experience in itself.

It has been two weeks of surprises and adventure biking. Great for body and soul.

The biggest surprise of all has been my wife Nadine and the fact she is actually doing this journey with me on the bike.

After 4000km she is no longer a rooky. She is getting very much at ease accelerating, stopping, emergency breaking, turning, map reading, drinking, picture taking and talking on the bike.

We start to become a real team each of us knowing exactly what to do at the next petrol station. Same goes for setting up for the night when we arrive at our motels or roadhouses.

Maybe this has been the only disappointment so far. The quality of accommodation has been dreadful. I will not blame the T3 organization because there is no other choice.

We are traveling far away from the national highways and cities. The Dundee raid is all about exploring less known routes and places. The rest comes as a consequence.

Breakfast is always the same as is lunch and diner. In the morning that would be scrambled eggs and lard, Barramundi fish or a meat hamburger at lunch and more meat, salad and chips at the BBQ by sunset. Consider the local beers VB or XXXX Gold and some nice NZ red and white wines. Nadine is a vegetarian and I do not eat red meat so we are constantly in the kitchen hustling with the cook to get us something “Mediterranean”. But hey this is Australia mate, enjoy the sun, the blues skies and the empty roads (when there isn’t a stupid kangaroo crossing) what else do you need?

I tell you what you need. Some great music and a crazy pub called Daly Waters Pub. (Google it) and check out some of our pictures later on this blog.

Danny drove his 1200 GS right in the middle of the bar and the band started to play..

G’Day folks, talk to yo’later.

André

Boroloola

2009-10-25T01:58:00.000+02:00

Hells Gate

2009-10-25T01:46:00.001+02:00

Los Zand (dirt road)

2009-10-25T01:43:00.000+02:00

Undara

2009-10-21T10:43:00.010+02:00

We were up at 7am for a 387km stretch from Charters Towers to Undara.

There were road works for 200km at least.

We discovered a new phenomenon "the road trains".

Huge Mack trucks with 3 to 5 trailers, 150 ton and some 50m long.

Because of the road works they are using the tar strip in the middle of the road.

Anything less big has to move out of the way. We don't discuss. I keep an eye on the horizon and when I see one coming I move over to the gravel part of the road. To the left that is or you are in big trouble.

A good training for the off road chapter of our journey later this month.

We were keeping a nice pace of about 130km/h until this red light started flashing on my dashboard. Turned out my rear tire was loosing pressure. I feel smart I bought this electronic gadget when I purchased the bike and quit stupid I didn't thinking about gear to repair my tire. Fortunately our assistance car cached up with us after an hour. Quick fix for these guys and we were back on the road in no time. Check out http://undara.com.au/

an amazing place! Tomorrow there are 486km on the menu. Our road book is showing 2 arrows to the right and one straight forward for 450km.

Nadine decided she has seen enough straight forward roads trough the bush. She will be joining the assistance car tomorrow and we'll catch up for diner.

Should improve my average speed I guess ;-)

Charters Towers

2009-10-20T14:28:00.009+02:00

G’Day folks,

I am writing you from Airlie Beach some 1500km North from Brisbane along the East Coast.

Yesterday it was Sunday and it turned out to be a good day to cover some distance.

As a matter of fact we did 670km on the motorbike. Leaving 8am from Tunnum Sands to arrive in Airlie Bay close to 6pm.

The A1 is a kind of two lane highway going up state and reminding you every 10km you’d better rest or R.I.P.

Massive trucks on both lanes testing your cool when you are to over take them. I shift down to 4th gear and let the GS rep to 7000 before getting her to 5th and up to 6th once I passed the bastard.

The wind is the worst, in some areas you literally have to shift your weight to the other side of the bike to keep it going straight.

The land is so desolate but beautiful in its monotony. My eyes were on the road but I am developing what they call here a wide angle view.

One must keep sight of what may come jumping out of the bush from each side of the road.

Every so many km there is a dead animal along the road. Kangaroo and many a smaller.

One gets used to everything and it’s true. After 1500km you start to get the picture what it is to drive in Aussie land.

Driving left I got used to in South-Africa but there all roads are fenced in so not many animal can surprise you jumping in front of your car or bike.

Here a kangaroo literally jumps at you. So the thing is you have to slow down and pass quietly when they graze along the roadside.

But than out of the blue came this car on our lane from opposite direction.

At that point I didn’t know it was a police car so I slowed down like hell. Exactly what they expect you to do before they pass you by to make a U turn and tail you until the next rest point.

I had been speeding, I did a 140km instead of 100km but officer I am telling you in Belgium that is ok.

For the very first time in my life I had to take the alcohol test there right in the middle of nowhere. 300km of waste land in both directions and than this.

Turned out the Red Bull I had earlier wasn’t a criminal offence. There are 4 that may sent you straight to prison in Queensland i.e. drivers fatigue, alcohol, speeding and safety belt.

We were lucky, he let us of the hook when we told him this was our 3rd day on the road and many more to come.

Some of our travel companions who were behind us were less lucky and got to pay 200$ on the spot.

Later that day we got to meet with a young couple who ran out of petrol at 50km from the next station.

Fortunately the T3 assistance car could spare some and off they were, back to Belgium Berchem where they came from.

Amazing, one travels to the other side of the world ending up on an empty road to help out folks who live exactly 5km from our doorstep.

Check out Caroline and Wim’s blog on their world tour on our friends blog list next to this page.

At km 550 and almost at our destination we got caught in a thunderstorm, hale and bad weather. From one moment to the next we were almost washed from the road.

We made an emergency stop and left the bike along the road and jumped in the nearest ditch turning our backs to the wind and the hauling rain and wind.

Too late to get our rain clothes out or to worry about the Nikon and the MacBook, just hoping they would survive this as the Touratech panniers are not waterproof.

Turned out there was 1cm water on the bottom and all clothes were socking wet but fortunately the laptop and camera were on top of other stuff and kept dry.

360km from Airlie Beach to Charters Towers. On the way don't miss Bowen.

If you heard about the movie Australia (Nicole Kidman) a major part was shot in Bowen. They call it BowenWood now..

42km dirt road to get at Ravenswood, check out the Imperial Hotel. Is this another film setting? Nadine getting ready for a well deserved beer at the local inn whilst I am capturing the local church. Tomorrow there are 378km on the agenda, time to call it a day.

Airlie day off

2009-10-20T13:46:00.006+02:00

Yesterday we were supposed to get on this boat and check out the isles in front of Airlie Beach.

The weather was too rough though with waves + 2,5m, so we hang in town. Searene was a great apartment-hotel we stayed. Nadine making friends with another BMW cruiser coming from Holland.

60 year old bloke with 20 year old bike, no competition. He actually drove it from Darwin to Melbourne and via India to Amsterdam. Rest of the day hanging with Belgian friends we made on the road. Wim and Caroline fromBerchem Antwerp. Check their blog via our link page.

Rest or R.I.P

2009-10-19T07:23:00.004+02:00

G’Day folks,

I am writing you from Airlie Beach some 1500km North from Brisbane along the East Coast.
Yesterday it was Sunday and it turned out to be a good day to cover some distance.
As a matter of fact we did 670km on the motorbike. Leaving 8am from Tunnum Sands to arrive in Airlie Beach close to 6pm.
The A1 is a kind of two lane highway going up state and reminding you every 10km you’d better rest or R.I.P.Massive trucks on both lanes testing your cool when you are to over take them. I shift down to 4th gear and let the GS rep to 7000 before getting to 5th and up to 6th once I passed the bastard.
The wind is the worst, in some areas you literally have to shift your weight to the other side of the bike to keep it going straight.
The land is so desolate but beautiful in its monotony. My eyes were on the road but I am developing what they call here a wide angle view.
One must keep sight of what may come jumping out of the bush from each side of the road.
Every so many km there lays a corps along the road. Kangaroo and many a smaller animal.
One gets used to everything and it’s true. After 1500km you start to get the picture what it is to drive around in Aussie land.
Driving left I got used to in South-Africa but there all roads are fenced in so not many animal surprise you jumping in front of you car or bike.
Here I am told a kangaroo literally jumps at you.

So the thing is you have to slow down and pass quietly when they graze along the roadside.
Any way, we saw some kangaroos but they were to far away to disturb us so we kept on cruising our GS at a fairly good speed.
But than out of the blue came this car on our lane from opposite direction.
At that point I didn’t know it was a police car so I slowed down like hell. Exactly what they expect you to do before they pass you by to make a U turn and tail you until the next rest point.
Yep we were speeding, 140km rather than 100km but sir I am telling you in Belgium that is ok.
For the very first time in my life I had to take the alcohol test there right in the middle of nowhere. 300km of waste land in both directions and I had to blow.
Turned out the Red Bull I had earlier wasn’t a criminal offence. There are 4 that may sent you straight to prison in Queensland i.e. drivers fatigue, alcohol, speeding and safety belt.
We were lucky, the lieutenant let us of the hook when we told him this was are 3rd day on the road and 57 to come.
Some of our travel companions who were behind us were less lucky and got to pay 200$ on the spot.

Later that day we got to meet with a young couple who ran out of petrol at 50km from the next station.
Fortunately the T3 assistance car could spare some and off they were, back to Belgium Berchem where they were from.
Amazing, one travels to the other side of the world ending up on an empty road to help out folks that live at exactly 2km from where we live.
Check out Caroline and Wim’s blog on their world tour in our friends bloglist next to this page.

At km 550 almost at our destination we got caught in a thunderstorm, hale and bad weather. From one moment to the next we were almost swiped from the road.
We made an emergency stop and left the bike along the road and jumped in the nearest ditch turning our backs to the wind and the hauling rain and wind.
Too late to get our rain clothes out or to worry about the Nikon and the MacBook, just hoping they would survive this as the Touratech panniers are not waterproof.
Turned out there was 1cm water on the bottom and all clothes were socking wet but fortunately the laptop and camera were on top of other stuff and kept dry.

Searene is a beautiful sea view development on Airie Bay hights.

We got an ocean view apartment and are enjoying happy hour and sunset.

Tomorrow is a day out on the sea visiting the isles and having a dive.

good night,

Can I go to sleep now?

2009-10-17T13:31:00.003+02:00

Yesterday was our first day on the bike.

200 km a long the coastal area North-East from Brisbane.

Destination was Noosa Heads, a surfers paradise with Knokke-Le Zoute aspiration. Great beach, took a swim at 6pm water temperature 22°C. Slept in a local Center Parcs hide away. Convenient but too far from the restaurant.

Should have taken the GS to get us there..

Nadine and I are very tired. The time difference is giving us nausea.

Had a great night sleep. Today Friday we covered some 460 km. Nadine is doing great on the duo-seat.

No worries at all, she is really getting the hang of it.

Somewhere in the middle of nowhere we visited the birthplace of Mary Poppins creator.

I think it was in Maryborough.

Later we went to visit a reptile farm in the same area.

We were both reluctant to waste a few hours watching crocodiles and snakes in captivity but it turned out to be super interesting.

Observed a snake-catcher who learned us everything about the five most poisonous snakes in Australia. I recall it is best to keep those bike boots on at any time.

›e saw our first reel full size (4.20m) crocodile.

Tonight staying over in the Reef Motor Inn at Tannums Sands.

Great BBQ near the pool but of to bed at 9.30pm.

Tomorrow 650km to Airlie Beach on the agenda.

I am so tired, falling a sleep behind my Mac.

I am making this short so I can go to sleep.

Se-ya in the morning lads.

Isn't she beautiful?

2009-10-15T14:12:00.006+02:00

Last night our bikes were delivered at the Sofitel hotel in Brisbane. 19 men having a private moment with their GS.

I stood tall.
A quick drive around the block and that was it.

To bed now, tomorrow morning we're of to Noosa.

Meet the Dundee

2009-10-14T13:47:00.011+02:00

Wednesday 10pm, Sofitel Brisbane:

The longest non-stop flight I have ever made was NY-Bangkok, 17h10'.

At some point you start to forget there is a world going on down there.
This one was 36 hours of which 23 in the air. Etihad Airlines took good care of us and can't be blamed I am 1,96m when their bed-chair length is only 1,80m. Air transport is all about standardization and perceived comfort. I am too tall and that has nothing to do with Arabic quality standards or being the best w.w. business airline in 2008. Tall people shouldn't think they are any special, they are like short people and everything else Randy Newman told us.

I should be grateful I was able to travel horizontally. But if you can't stretch your legs it's like wishing someone a good night sleep but waking him up every half an hour.

Overall it was a smooth flight. 3 movies, 5 tomato juices, 3 newspapers,

100 pages Paulo Coelho and a couple of chapters from the Nikon D300 users manual. Some sleep but not much and lots of water. The sun was out when we landed in Australia. 34°C with blue skies like you can only find along the ocean. A clean, crisp skyline and a nice breeze. Lots of sail boats out looking like white dots on the Australian flag.

Last time I was here was at the 2000 Olympics. I felt welcome then and I feel good to be here now. These are nice folks.

No bullying at customs, everything has been prepared online. This is a civilized country and a damn efficient one. When you write Arijs (my wife's name) with a Y because no one knows how to pronounce IJ on the other side of the world you guessed well you were a fool to underestimate that nice man at customs. Because he found out Nadine was not the person she said she was. She is Nadine Arijs with a IJ and not Arys. Better get it right next time lad or before you know you are on your way home..

all smiles and good humor but a lesson not to forget.

Eric Massiet du Biest, Eric as he wants to be called, is the organizer of this raid and the owner of the T3 company. He came to pick us up at the airport and drove us to our hotel this morning. He is driving this huge white Toyota Landcruiser named "Scout".

Scout will be the assistance car all along our journey trough Austral

ia. By the way Land Rover is no longer the reference here, Toyota took over a long time ago.

When you really, really want to make sure you get back safely you better make it a Landcruiser.

Eric multiplied this thinking by four. One assistance car, one for the film crew, one for luggage and spare parts and last but not least a Mitsubischi Canter if you need to get a bike out of the sand and on the pick up. Looks like we have our gear right.

The remaining of the day we walked around in Brisbane's business center where our hotel is. Think USA but a bit nicer and better infra

structure, say St Louis.

Not particularly a city that makes me dream about our adventure to come but a great bed, a nice pool and most of all a great massage.

So we're all set. Our bikes arrived early evening right in time for some fine tuning and get this baby ready for the road.

Nadine tried out her gear and is living up to the occasion. There will be 19 bikes on the road to Darwin. If I counted right there will be at least 10 couples. Nadine is feeling better about all this every day. Let's hope she will still like it tomorrow.

Everyone cheered for her at diner tonight and wished her good luck on her GS Adventure maiden trip in Australia.

I bet she is gonna like this.

Abu Dhabi

2009-10-13T06:05:00.003+02:00

Stop over in Abu Dhabi on our way to Sydney & Brisbane with Etihad Airways. Meanwhile the Dundee T3 team in Brisbane is making last preparations check out: http://www.t3.fr/modules.php?name=T3_Article&sid=647&catid=225&theme=T3_GS

Almost.

2009-10-11T12:58:00.003+02:00

I'm ready for this..bags are packed and we're all set to leave tomorrow evening!
Ready to embark on André's steal horse and cruise...

Going under.

2009-10-04T16:02:00.045+02:00

My wife Nadine and I are to leave for Brisbane Australia next Monday October 12th 2009.

October 15th we will be joining the travel

organization T3.

Check out http://www.t3.fr and search for Dundee.

There will be 12 motorbikes taking the start of a 3 lap and a 2 month adventure bringing us from Brisbane to Darwin and later to Perth and back to Brisbane, around December 15th.

Nadine whom I married exactly 35 years ago this very day has never been on a motorbike before in her life. The few times I could convince her to take place on the backseat of my BMW 1200 GS Adventure she stepped down even before I was able to shift into first gear.

But this time it will be different she said.

We will be in Australia with other couples with similar bikes sharing the same experience.

But if it turns out she doesn't like being on the BMW we prepared a fall back solution. She can always join the Mitsubishi 4x4 support car that will be following us throughout our journey.

I guess I will start my blog once we hit the road as there is not much exciting

to report from where we are in Belgium.

Only a few days to go before leaving for Brisbane.

Time to pack and select the bare necessities and leave behind the unnecessary.

Talking about the essentials. Bought myself a Leatherman yesterday. When I was in South-Africa I learned it was good to have one handy.

So much for now, I'll be back once I am on my bike chasing kangaroo's.